>>2925281
All you need is a spoke wrench.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007443497556.html

Use the tightest side that fits, otherwise you round over the nipples.
Remove the tire and tube. Put the wheel back in the fork.
The spokes have a spoke nipple that sits in the rim, the two are screwed into each other with a thread. You can tighten that to adjust the wheel.
Spokes have a pattern, there's always 2 parallel spokes. Grab them, squeeze them together.
Some will be tighter, some will be looser, check them all and get a feeling for it.
Spoke nipples are soft (brass or aluminium) you can easily break them if you overtighten, also give them some oil if they squeak. Trouble is you need them pretty damn tight just about to break is kinda what is required.
Some spokes are on the RIGHT side of the hub flange, others on the LEFT side of the spoke flange. If you tighten one side, you pull the rim to that side.
You can use the brake pad as a visual reference, find the highest spot where it's the most "left" or "right" and tighten the spoke nipples on the opposite side to pull it away.
You can also glue on cardboard or use a cable tie, anything works really.
Always look for the highest spot and whack it down.
If the tension gets too high to pull more, instead loosen the nipples on the side where it's too high.
There's probably not much of a vertical runout, and it doesn't matter that much anyways.
Focus on getting the wheel to run true side to side and on achieving roughly even spoke tention all the way around.
Most wheels from the factory have way too little tension, and when you hit a curb or pothole you unload the tension from the spoke entirely and the thread between the spoke and nipple is unloaded and can unturn itself.
A properly done wheel with proper spoke tension lasts forever.

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Out of true bike wheel